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THE ART OF GEAR 2: 1ST 1ST-2ND-THIRDS OF THE RAIL

Back to basics again!

time back to basics and especially emphasize the importance of learning to make gear changes as appropriate. Suffice to say that the first transitions 1era.-2nd.-1st. and height are the pillars of the technique we want to consolidate and unless we do very well, we'll be pulling the same mistakes thousands of once per shift. Too many experienced motorcyclists alone who learned the tricks correcting them step in shifting.

The first is to return to the theme of Revolutions Per Minute (RPM) engine. As we have already discussed in The Art of Gearshift, I advise you to read again, each revolution equals one turn of the crankshaft and each gear has an optimum speed range in which it will work. As simple as that if we make the change before the amount of the engine RPM is going to take top gear with laziness and inefficiency and, if long overdue, we will create excessive wear on internal engine components and we are going to abuse in vain (and I say in vain, for further acceleration will not create greater acceleration and speed).

Diagram Explanation, single cylinder engine with dual overhead Cam (popularly known as "double bottom")

I and E =
Camshafts S = Spark ("candle")
V = valves
W = Refrigerant ("coolant")
P = Piston
R = rod (connecting rod between the piston and the crankshaft)
C = Crankshaft (vertical movement up and down the piston is converted through rod into rotary motion that turns the crankshaft, resulting in the RPM).



Just before going to practice, it is worth recommending to do this over a wide area and safe, where no heavy traffic, children, neighbors or other hazard fussy or distracting. Once you've got first and start accelerate smoothly, listen while the engine sound and feel the vibration. There will come a point where the motor will sound "ugly" the engine will vibrate as it seems that "we will kick your ass" and the bike will start to "fall asleep". The quotation marks are reference to the subjective expressions that frame, but what is not subjective at all is that the sound that the engine will occur if we are in 1st. and spent the RPM is going to listen so horrible that even his grandmothers who do not know anything about bikes or engines will want to immediately stop the sound!

In my experience with a lot of bikes, the vast majority of 4-stroke engines (low, medium or high capacity), about 5000 RPM in 1st. the engine will strongly request the change to 2nd. I've seen in the Suzuki GN125, the Genesis HJ150-2, the Honda Twister 250, Bajaj Pulsar 200, the BMW 650 single cylinder and twin cylinder, the R1200GS, the Kawasaki Versys 650, KLR650, Suzuki DL650 V- Strom and others which I can not remember right now. Es un patrón consistente: a 5000 RPM o cerca de ellas, casi cualquier motor 4 tiempos va pidiendo cambio de marcha de 1era a 2da. 

Hay excepciones, pero es redundante decir que son las menos: las motos pisteras (pude probar una Suzuki GSXR-750) y una que otra con toques deportivos (la TVS Apache 160) revolucionan un poco por encima de las 5000 RPM. Menciono esto para que tengan una referencia y no para que vayan tan consumidos viendo el tacómetro de la moto (si lo tiene) que terminen estrellados Dios sabe dónde. Recuerden: la moto va donde va la vista; la vista guía la moto, vista al frente!

Volviendo a lo de ir en 1era. con smooth and constant acceleration, near those 5000 RPM (or where the engine noise and vibration provided), we will sink the knob on the left and stop speeding. The bike will do horrible if during the gear change speed do not stop, so it is crucial that we achieve coordination to depress the knob on the left and completely stop the rotation of the throttle grip. While doing this, almost simultaneously the left foot is operating the gear shifting pin (clac!) and right there, we started to release the clutch lever / clutch and resumed the acceleration with the right fist. If done well, congratulations are in 2nd!



Once in 2nd., if you take us long to return to the acceleration, the engine will "cackle" and the bike feels as if trying to shake off, even though we will not speed up help achieve. In this case we can go back to stay in 1st or 2nd. but sinking a little clutch while accelerating almost imperceptibly to raise the RPM. In any case, the goal will be to change 1st. to 2nd. a quick and effective so that the engine RPM waste while the new driver thinks 1 by 1 the steps.

When they succeed in making this change well, we can speed up a little in 2nd and after advancing a few meters, we prepare to stop. This is where we use the front brake and / or rear or, alternatively, leave to speed (throttle grip carried forward). This braking action will help the engine faster your RPM down to the Area compression, which is the RPM range recommended for moving to a lower gear, in this case 1st. This leads us to see the other side of the coin: to make the transition from 2nd. to 1st. I need you to speed down the range of 3000-2000 RPM for compression, or engine brake, not as rude to abuse the motor.

If I'm in 2nd. to 5000-4500 RPM and 1st shot. leñazo one, the engine will skip and NOT happy! I clarify once and this may turn out to be an extended process of trial and error due to differences between motor and engine, but ultimately pass the 1st generalizations. to 2nd. at 5000rpm and get 2nd. to 1st. between 3000-2000 RPM will greatly facilitate their learning.

After 2nd down. to 1st. and slightly loosen the clutch to accommodate the sprockets and compression happens, it remains to finish using the regular brakes to stop the bike completely. We have left the stream well wrong or more or less, you have to keep practicing and practicing until there is no doubt that the engine is fulfilling our orders and compression gear change to the letter, with harmony and without causing damage.

If you look closer, going from 1st . to 2nd. is a whole series of complex actions that are provided for the novice mistake many times before achieving a smooth transition and therefore is an art . is common to take so long between an action and the other for when it is achieved, the engine has already lost so many revolutions that top gear (2nd in this case) between too loose and the engine "cackle" or, to be a 1st 2nd pass so quickly without lowering the engine RPM "do ugly" and "stop nail." I promise you just have opportunity will complement this theoretical explanation with some videos. Meanwhile, do not be lazy @ s, estúdiense the topic, take notes and practice until they start to get calluses on your hands. Remember that perfection requires sacrifices and riding a motorcycle is serious business.

See you on the road! Rodrigo M.








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