Protein Powder Pregnancy

THE ART OF GEAR 2: 1ST 1ST-2ND-THIRDS OF THE RAIL

Back to basics again!

time back to basics and especially emphasize the importance of learning to make gear changes as appropriate. Suffice to say that the first transitions 1era.-2nd.-1st. and height are the pillars of the technique we want to consolidate and unless we do very well, we'll be pulling the same mistakes thousands of once per shift. Too many experienced motorcyclists alone who learned the tricks correcting them step in shifting.

The first is to return to the theme of Revolutions Per Minute (RPM) engine. As we have already discussed in The Art of Gearshift, I advise you to read again, each revolution equals one turn of the crankshaft and each gear has an optimum speed range in which it will work. As simple as that if we make the change before the amount of the engine RPM is going to take top gear with laziness and inefficiency and, if long overdue, we will create excessive wear on internal engine components and we are going to abuse in vain (and I say in vain, for further acceleration will not create greater acceleration and speed).

Diagram Explanation, single cylinder engine with dual overhead Cam (popularly known as "double bottom")

I and E =
Camshafts S = Spark ("candle")
V = valves
W = Refrigerant ("coolant")
P = Piston
R = rod (connecting rod between the piston and the crankshaft)
C = Crankshaft (vertical movement up and down the piston is converted through rod into rotary motion that turns the crankshaft, resulting in the RPM).



Just before going to practice, it is worth recommending to do this over a wide area and safe, where no heavy traffic, children, neighbors or other hazard fussy or distracting. Once you've got first and start accelerate smoothly, listen while the engine sound and feel the vibration. There will come a point where the motor will sound "ugly" the engine will vibrate as it seems that "we will kick your ass" and the bike will start to "fall asleep". The quotation marks are reference to the subjective expressions that frame, but what is not subjective at all is that the sound that the engine will occur if we are in 1st. and spent the RPM is going to listen so horrible that even his grandmothers who do not know anything about bikes or engines will want to immediately stop the sound!

In my experience with a lot of bikes, the vast majority of 4-stroke engines (low, medium or high capacity), about 5000 RPM in 1st. the engine will strongly request the change to 2nd. I've seen in the Suzuki GN125, the Genesis HJ150-2, the Honda Twister 250, Bajaj Pulsar 200, the BMW 650 single cylinder and twin cylinder, the R1200GS, the Kawasaki Versys 650, KLR650, Suzuki DL650 V- Strom and others which I can not remember right now. Es un patrón consistente: a 5000 RPM o cerca de ellas, casi cualquier motor 4 tiempos va pidiendo cambio de marcha de 1era a 2da. 

Hay excepciones, pero es redundante decir que son las menos: las motos pisteras (pude probar una Suzuki GSXR-750) y una que otra con toques deportivos (la TVS Apache 160) revolucionan un poco por encima de las 5000 RPM. Menciono esto para que tengan una referencia y no para que vayan tan consumidos viendo el tacómetro de la moto (si lo tiene) que terminen estrellados Dios sabe dónde. Recuerden: la moto va donde va la vista; la vista guía la moto, vista al frente!

Volviendo a lo de ir en 1era. con smooth and constant acceleration, near those 5000 RPM (or where the engine noise and vibration provided), we will sink the knob on the left and stop speeding. The bike will do horrible if during the gear change speed do not stop, so it is crucial that we achieve coordination to depress the knob on the left and completely stop the rotation of the throttle grip. While doing this, almost simultaneously the left foot is operating the gear shifting pin (clac!) and right there, we started to release the clutch lever / clutch and resumed the acceleration with the right fist. If done well, congratulations are in 2nd!



Once in 2nd., if you take us long to return to the acceleration, the engine will "cackle" and the bike feels as if trying to shake off, even though we will not speed up help achieve. In this case we can go back to stay in 1st or 2nd. but sinking a little clutch while accelerating almost imperceptibly to raise the RPM. In any case, the goal will be to change 1st. to 2nd. a quick and effective so that the engine RPM waste while the new driver thinks 1 by 1 the steps.

When they succeed in making this change well, we can speed up a little in 2nd and after advancing a few meters, we prepare to stop. This is where we use the front brake and / or rear or, alternatively, leave to speed (throttle grip carried forward). This braking action will help the engine faster your RPM down to the Area compression, which is the RPM range recommended for moving to a lower gear, in this case 1st. This leads us to see the other side of the coin: to make the transition from 2nd. to 1st. I need you to speed down the range of 3000-2000 RPM for compression, or engine brake, not as rude to abuse the motor.

If I'm in 2nd. to 5000-4500 RPM and 1st shot. leñazo one, the engine will skip and NOT happy! I clarify once and this may turn out to be an extended process of trial and error due to differences between motor and engine, but ultimately pass the 1st generalizations. to 2nd. at 5000rpm and get 2nd. to 1st. between 3000-2000 RPM will greatly facilitate their learning.

After 2nd down. to 1st. and slightly loosen the clutch to accommodate the sprockets and compression happens, it remains to finish using the regular brakes to stop the bike completely. We have left the stream well wrong or more or less, you have to keep practicing and practicing until there is no doubt that the engine is fulfilling our orders and compression gear change to the letter, with harmony and without causing damage.

If you look closer, going from 1st . to 2nd. is a whole series of complex actions that are provided for the novice mistake many times before achieving a smooth transition and therefore is an art . is common to take so long between an action and the other for when it is achieved, the engine has already lost so many revolutions that top gear (2nd in this case) between too loose and the engine "cackle" or, to be a 1st 2nd pass so quickly without lowering the engine RPM "do ugly" and "stop nail." I promise you just have opportunity will complement this theoretical explanation with some videos. Meanwhile, do not be lazy @ s, estúdiense the topic, take notes and practice until they start to get calluses on your hands. Remember that perfection requires sacrifices and riding a motorcycle is serious business.

See you on the road! Rodrigo M.








@ Interested in getting a license? Tips for choosing your first bike? How to go taking the first steps? On the blog there is much more than what you see on the first page, so l @ s invite you to see the other pages on "Post Older" at the bottom of each page pure and follow the blog. You can contact me at 8814-9694.

Why Do Bodily Fluids Glow

1000 colones If I win every time someone comes to speak of "the bikes have to walk through the center of the lane as the cars" I think some would fail me to retire before 35 years and live as the rich and famous. We return to the issue of Moto Matrix, where in this new world of motorcycles apply other rules that have little or nothing to do with the cars.

The famous saying is a myth, and one well bad for novice riders who are just starting to see what the real world of the bike. Usually he is heard to say to motorists resent that die of colerón happens when a motorcycle of ladito while they are wasting fuel in the dam and looking forward to coming home one day to take off the stress of the day. The "juep * Bikes TAS should walk in center" is a statement based on ignorance of the dynamics of a vehicle with two wheels and engine.

For starters, let's say that (take note, this one says it to one):

1 LANE = 3 Subcarriles or Thirds

FAR LEFT LANE Rapid Transit =
CENTRAL RAIL Traffic = moderate
FAR RIGHT LANE = slow transit

LANE HIGHWAY 2 = 6 Subcarriles or
Thirds LANE HIGHWAY 3 = 9
Thirds Subcarriles or

Turning to the practice and from general to specific, let's talk about Subcarriles. If we said that each full lane will be divided (notionally) in 3 for the bike, we have to add that each subcarril will fulfill functions very clear about the other two subcarriles. Let us see:

1) SUBCARRIL CENTRAL: this third rail, contrary to what people say who know nothing about motorcycling theory is used to "dominate" the whole lane we travel. If I come through downtown my lane, at a rate consistent or slightly higher than the traffic around me, why I have not cede my position to anyone, at least one other car that I would steal the field. I explained at once that this is not about a struggle of egos, possessed male nor female testosterone crazed by the moon, but of self-preservation for the rider.

If a car tries to win me the position and this represents a danger for me (being hit by a truck lane, get out of the road, go on a cherry, etc.) I will be forced to plant in the center of the lane and not allowing me to invade the space. If I have to choose between two dangers, I'm staying in with the lowest risk for me, and that would almost always dominate my lane in an attitude of "If I am going to go over, do it right that I do not move here ". Suddenly a mad motorist could carry out something so horrible, but most will think even if you are dying of rabies. Remember again, it is very important: if I come in the heart of any good speed lane for vehicles around me There is no reason to cede the field to any abusive driver, especially if this is going to put at risk.

Once, during the epic journey , an aggressive driver in the pickup came to more than 100 km / h majándonos the heels of my best friend and me in the line of a single lane of the Bridge of Friendship to the junction of Limonal (to go to Inter). As we had no field or to slow down or aorillarnos without risking his own skin, I sent my inexperienced friend along and I was occupying the very center of the lane slowing the progress of the car until the line finally opened and we could get used to one side so that the jerk truck to pass. It was a rather compromised and the best we could do was defend the lane going down the central subcarril.

Keep in mind that circulate in the very center of the lane (middle third) puts us in a braking situation dangerous if the car decelerates suddenly goes forward and we have no chance to brake or avoid the sides. This scenario becomes more likely and risky if we go on a dam in the rain and the tire grip is poor. This center, we go the more difficult to be detected by a driver distracted and not allow us to observe the mirrors of the car in question to anticipate the danger.

By way of contrast, another much more relaxed opportunity to occupy the central subcarril is when there are almost no cars around us and we can afford to take subcarril pleases us on any lane and we singing "Born to be Wild."

2) SUBCARRIL LEFT: is more defensive third rail, and that puts us in a situation of "see and be seen." In this subcarril we place ourselves in a position to observe the mirror of the car that will immediately forward to see if the driver is talking on the phone or with a passenger, if they noticed our presence and other useful information. Even in times when you may see two or three cars ahead of where we go and collect more information about whether to proceed forward, if better keep the distance or rail pass us all.

In this position, apart from going to monitor the line of cars ahead, we have the opportunity to execute an evasive maneuver to the left (as long as we have already seen before that did not come back anything on that side!) If the car front stops us from nothing. We can also prepare for a lane change or turning left.


3) SUBCARRIL LAW: this subcarril used to go looking for a lane change or a shift to the right. If we are not thinking of any of these options, then we should not go down this lane, unless the highway is so little traffic that we can choose the subcarril into the track you want. In the event that we circulate in traffic congestion, we save a little more distance with the vehicle ahead, as this driver will not be able to look and can stop at any time. In general, the less time we stay in this third side of the lane better, especially if it's raining. If there is another, then remember to keep good distance forward (but not so much that the driver behind is tempted to take off the field!).


hope that the foregoing serves to clarify this confusing dilemma of "walking through downtown or walk through the center, because everything that has to do with a myth that we have tried to impose those who did not know what is riding a bike. The next time that a non-rider or motorist suffered tell you something to talk to center. .. well, you will know what to say.

See you on the road!

R.

@ Interested in getting a license? Tips for choosing your first bike? How to go taking the first steps? The blog is much more than what you see on the first page, so l @ s invite you to see the other pages on "Post Older" at the bottom of each page pure and follow the blog. I can contact at 8814-9694.

Raunchy Christmas Gifts

MOTO SNIPER: MOTO

"Where will the hearing, will the bike" and "where it says the eye, put the bullet" are two sayings that describe the phenomenon of Ocular Driving. One of the mistakes common and recurrent novice with bikes is failing to keep their eye where it belongs. I will listen often tell my students "look forward", "up the view," the guide head spin "to correct the tendency to go looking down or the instruments of the motorcycle.

While it is quite difficult to prevent and correct this instinctive reaction, this detail of the eye is the driving distinguishes the makeshift trained rider. Returning to the analogy of the rifle and the bullet, the ability to make the bike go exactly where we want to take requires precision sniper ... failure is not an option. The lack of control and precision do not translate into an obstacle that lies ahead, not to take either a curve in a driving error to lose perspective.

"Where is the light, the bike will" is an axiom motorcycle, to a certain extent say, but outlines the fact that most of the time the eyes are going to dictate to the arms and the crank arms course of the rest of the bike. Not to say that if I am coming to see for a few short seconds at a striking girl 50 meters to my right, my bike is going to go as a magnet attracted to the little girl, but if I keep my eyes fixed out of my way for a long time I'll put in a dangerous situation. It is not difficult to imagine the beginner to bring the eyes down, listening to the instruments of the bike, ends up running into an obstacle or get scared and ends up falling.

To help correct these dangerous trends, say the following to achieve accurate visual driving:

1) IN STRAIGHT: When we handle the bike in a straight path, the view must be scanning the frontal view all as possible (this will depend whether other vehicles or obstacles below). If we follow a car or truck, it is wise to keep a distance of at least 2 seconds in ideal conditions (when no rain, no fog, the surface is stable, etc.) and about 4 seconds if visibility decreases or see affected traction of the tires of the bike. It is important to remember that we always have to watch our back environment, both with mirrors and with the lateral check, or "lifeline" as they say in English, with the head (the head turns at a right angle over your shoulder to cover the points blind in the mirrors).

2) path: During curves should be monitored not only forward (and backward), but use your head to guide the opening of the spin that unfolds before our eyes. It tries to anticipate the turn so that, if we have the equivalent pure face at 12 o'clock, during a right curve our eyes are going to find cover from 12 until 3 o'clock if possible . Similarly, if the turn off to the left, the view should range from 12 up to 9 o'clock, to have time to react to an eventual collapse, the truck stopped or oil stain divisaríamos never keeping his eyes fixed on the 12 o'clock in the curve. Walk like a horse with "blinders" is useless.




3) BACKWARD: We return to discuss the picture back because the learner has a strong tendency to forget that continue to circulate behind car, buses, trucks and other bikes. I can not overemphasize the importance of being checking mirrors and make the famous lifeguard, since this move does just that: save the skin of a life-threatening neglect. Suffice it to say that once while I was changing lanes, after reviewing my right mirror, I moved to the right just to take another rider who came perilously stuck in my blind spot on the bike. The fault was of the two: mine for settle for nothing but the mirror check before changing lanes and Campero deliveryman for assuming that I had seen him and I was not going to go places. Fortunately the incident was not over and above all, do not come any other vehicle in the rear, but I can imagine how much more dangerous would have been all in less favorable circumstances ... and all for a seemingly harmless oversight!


4) FIXATION TARGET: This happens when we were watching some point gone out of our way, as an obstacle, another vehicle, a hole, a stain or oil. and to divert attention to this objective we lose the normal route or avoidance with which we avoided an incident. If we consider that goal setting is always going to give (unless you close our eyes!), To avoid the danger ahead we blur the view of the danger and toward the point or route of escape. In this video you can see how the rider just as if nothing out of the curve and falls almost across the tree. This is what happens when we set eyes on the wrong place for a long time ...


I hope these tips to start practicing or, if you followed them, have them more into account. Do not forget that the bike sniper accuracy when the crank drive comes from our eyes and just the right training is going to become experts in the Conduct motorcyclists Ocular. Failure is not an option ...


R.

@ Interested in getting a license? Tips for choosing your first bike? How to be taking the first steps? The blog is much more than what you see on the first page, so l @ s invite you to see the other pages on "Post Older" at the bottom of each page pure and follow the blog. You can contact me at 8814-9694.