DIAGNOSIS IN TWO WHEELS ... DARE? 
If it was not as disturbing as it is really I think I would grace that leads everyone to believe that much better than it actually does. It is a fairly widespread issue that most of people believe that because he has many years of operating or has little but has a good level of skill (at least in relative terms) and are super drivers. God keep coming and then the whistle sound to you or make you change the driver to light travels in the fast lane at 60 hours because it is distracted by passengers or talking on a cellphone or demand to the bike idiot (pela'o ass, old bad job, without insurance and even unlicensed) that comes from text message because it exposes one to the mother, threatened, withheld to fight or to get hit with a bullet. These drivers living deceived about their driving skills crank or cross from one lane to another without putting directional braking where they should not and do not realize what they do because they get distracted or worth a recarajo.
Small wonder whether we consider that we receive no formal training for cycling, which teaches us a friend or relative to drive car and a motorcycle grabbed muuuuuuuuy think it is easy to handle because you have details reminiscent of the bike or they learned to spin around the block, in a parking lot or on a farm. As for the cars, in a while I think to some extent can be as horses as they wish without having to face consequences as serious as it would play a motorcyclist in the same circumstances. Back to the bikes, since I teach management not fail to insist the @ s students should consider our two-wheeled vehicle and driving as a serious issue and worthy of study.
Now, as not all riders can attend our classes, or not considered necessary because "you know", I offer a mini guide to self-diagnose their skills and if you really are as sharp as they could and should be to force keep going on a motorcycle.
1) What is the main brake of the bike?
Many people, recalling the traumatic leñazos incurred when applying the front brake the bike, think that the matter is the same on a motorcycle and avoid at all costs to use the right handle of the bike. The recipe then, many motorcyclists is applied to brake pedal (rear brake) as possible and forget the front brake. breaking news: FRONT BRAKE IS THE MAIN BRAKE MOTO! That's right, friends: in general for all bikes is the front brake master and can be used at any speed if you have the knowledge and practice to do so (can not say the same rear brake more useful at lower speeds .)
During deceleration situations (apply brakes or stop accelerating) is given a weight transfer toward the front of the bike (and the rear becomes proportionally lighter), which lets you apply more pressure with the front brake without leaving catapulted over the handle. Understand the following: Not that one can not fly over the bike to slow over the bill forward, but is more difficult to happen in cycling bike and the reason is the relationship between vehicle weight and driver. Not measuring 1.90 m. and blowing the shirt of muscle will weigh more than 120kg pilot average bike weighs a light for adults.
It should be clear that much of the braking technically correct is in knowing how to manage the pressure of braking and traction of the vehicle. To achieve this we think that the more weight a tire and wheel load determined during braking, the more you use the brake to play against the other. Now, as we said recently, deceleration, especially when traveling over 25 km / h, it will focus mostly on the front of the bike and if we do not use the front brake is a good chance to extend much braking, rear brake abuse and cause a rear wheel skid. It is noteworthy that travel faster the bike before braking the front brake will have enormous significance in early and middle stages of the braking, while excess weight and traction at the front gradually begins to redeploy to the rear. In other words, the faster the greater use of front brake (the counterpart is the rear brake: the lower the greater use of pedal speed). You can use the front brake even at low speed, but this requires very good touch and skill, as this is the land par excellence of the rear brake. Brake deal with these details further in other sections of the blog.
2) By going slowly, almost stopping, the bike suffered front suspension rebounds?
If this happens means that no braking is the best way possible and that you are applying too much or too quickly the right front brake handle. We must keep in mind that a proper braking should be smooth but effective suspension without bouncing or jerky movements uncontrolled. Unless you are running an emergency stop, when to stop the bike should be stopped as a feather.
The diagnostic tests that we perform in school plays BMW, one of the first things I noticed is how slow learners and does not take long before the bad habits to surface. That infamous clavonazo and subsequent rebound of the front suspension always mean that we have an inexperienced student or one with experience but with conduction defects or family friend who taught him (or tricks of his own.)
The issue of stopping this bad habit is not just that it looks ugly (horrible!), but the imbalance resulting in the suspension and chassis of the bike many times threatens to lead to ground (and end up down the front brake if applied in a tight turn like a narrow U-turn past or cones).
clavonazo The explanation of this front suspension and rebound when the bike is traveling at low speed, say 25 km / hour or less, traction is predominant in the rear. In this case, if not directly attack the source of pull back, the front brake will stop the front tire in dry and will leave us ready to take the hit invisible inertia or momentum built. What is coming is the usual header clavonazo or later and rebound occurs after clavón, releasing the front brake lever. It takes a lot of tact and finesse to stop with the front brake without spiking suspension and at the beginning, not too complicated as we work more expertise, we can confine ourselves to make all braking less than 25 km per hour to the brake pedal, the rear.
In later stages seek to apply the braking Integral involving the simultaneous use of both brakes, but each with the appropriate braking pressure at each time of deceleration. I promise more details later.
3) Bring both feet before stopping on the bike? If not, what stand out first and why?
If one pays attention to the motorcyclists who walk in the street, they take a range of combinations of braking habits, where the common denominator is the lack of skill and technique. Are you a mile before stopping take a foot, while others take the two, there are those who hope to stop the bike completely (uh, clavonazo front included) and take the two feet of wall cartoons doctor pediatrician (at least my old pediatrician). There are also those that lower the right foot and go to the left, while a lower one and then the other stays on the brake pedal ... If you, dear reader, is one of these customs but not explain why, and that says a lot of the art ... or lack thereof.
Something that our students learn is that every move you make should be studied: Nothing to free movement without end or reason. Within this, stop when students learn that the left leg is the first off the bike and that will only happen when have stopped completely. That should slow down to inches, giving bouncing on one foot while the bike is a dubious forward without stop where the driver would have liked one of the first things eliminated with training.
The idea is that, as noted above, when we go to 25km per hour down, pulling the bike is concentrated in the rear and to reduce this tension and create braking have to work with the pedal or rear brake. To accomplish this, we must bow slightly to the left to counterbalance and keep the right foot on the rear brake. Once you stop the bike, we took the left leg, the support and the right can be either on foot or can be lowered smoothly to rest or hold the bike better (like when we have tickets @).
As we said, every move is coldly calculated and is therefore likely to be explained in detail, and stuck to basics.
4) In what position your left hand goes over the clutch lever or clutch to handle the bike?
Carry on your left hand while driving to always have the hand clutch handle was one of those things that really taught myself ... I do not know if by instinct or because I thought it saved time and activating disabling transmission of the bike with the hand there. Over time, reading and browsing in Internet forums and I realized that after all my instincts in this regard was not entirely wrong, since it is said that this habit can save us valuable tenths of a second in time react to emergency braking and gear changes made suitable for a road obstacle avoidance.
If we understand this well, then the common failures of the students who come to the diagnosis are not taking the hand on the handle list
the clutch at all or take a few fingers instead of four. So this leads us to talk about emergency braking.
5) know how to brake in an emergency?
In a moment of nothing we have to hit us hard on the brakes, if you do not know exactly what is recommended for these situations we have fixed almost half guaranteed accident. Those who by custom slow down over the rear brake (because they believe that is the main brake of the bike) will do just that in sudden braking, excessive force to press the brake and go in seconds right in the rear skid. If correct technique could have prevented this loss of rear tire traction, braking evil ends up doing many times the motorcycle crash, fall or fly off the bike, to say the least.
thing to know here is that in an emergency situation, information overload to the brain and the huge amount of adrenalin will start running through our veins will tend to block our fine motor for braking, unless we have a technical knowledge on how to execute the maneuver and have it very well practiced. In such a critical time will be almost impossible to operate the controls on the left side of the bike to go up and up and compresses the controls the right side to go with handle and integral braking pedal, so let's look simplify full emergency braking.
As our number one priority will be slowing down as soon as possible and with minimal effort, let's forget about the marches and for this we will put the clutch lever to the pure substance to override the transmission of the motorcycle (and the power reaching the rear tire). While we have the clutch depressed on the other side we will be applying the best braking integral part of our repertoire, or front and rear brake simultaneously, but each with different brake pressure according to the weight and traction of each wheel during initial, middle and end of the process.
This is the really difficult to stop a motorcycle skill that must first learn without the help of ABS and integrated brake (rear brake excess partially activates the front brake). I've heard of cases where a person too accustomed to the ABS will save your ass, after disconnecting the device without realizing it, a bad brake applied only to fly off the bike or fall after the surprise slip.
Once we got the full height, we can redirect our attention to another couple of important points again marching down the first to have the bike ready to go again and make sure as soon as possible that there comes another vehicle from behind to threaten our position. ______
Let's get this first part of the topic, I finally realized that I was going to be sooo long. Just as I can I'll be posting the second part of this important issue of self, to help them land to all riders who think they know a lot but still have some humility and curiosity to take your driving technique to another level. ALWAYS remember that we can learn to become better riders and not those who "already handle."
R.
@
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